Welcome home to Ellendale's

Restaurants located in old houses always appeal to me. They make me feel like I just stopped by someone's house for a cozy home-cooked meal. Of course, in most of these restaurants, it's more like I just stopped by someone's incredibly enormous and historic house for a cozy, elegant, creative and remarkably delicious home-cooked meal unlike anything I've had before. The latter is the case at Ellendale's.
Located off Donelson Pike just past the airport exit, this inconspicuous eatery offers elegance, ambiance and a menu strikingly reminiscent of the creations from Top Chef, only slightly less ostentatious. Named for the owner's great grandmother, a celebrated philanthropist, Ellendale's tries to honor her memory by welcoming the hungry and feeding them with kindness. The comfort and class of the establishment skillfully masks its somewhat unexpected surroundings (the closest thing to another restaurant in the area is a Wendy's and a gas station). Dim lighting, well-spoken servers and live jazz piano made my late dinner seem movie-worthy, and I'm sure an earlier dinner on their inviting patio in the upcoming fall weather will inevitably make its way to my calendar.
Atmosphere can speak volumes about a restaurant, but the food always ends up yelling quite a bit louder. The food at Ellendale's happens to yell in the style of a well-traveled Southern grandmother with impeccable taste for combining traditional home cooking with international and new continental cuisine.
I started out with the asiago crusted calamari and trio of dipping sauces. As a self-proclaimed calamari connoisseur, I will say it was one of the better batches I've had. Not chewy like so many, and the trio of marinara, garlic aioli and pesto sauces expanded the possibilities of this classic appetizer nicely. Paired with my glass of white zinfandel, another personal favorite, it started the evening off perfectly.
For the main course I went with an upscale version of an old standby: a glazed apple brandy pork chop. A long way from the Brady-esque pork chops and apple sauce, this perfectly prepared pork chop, topped with Vidalia onion rings and apple fries and served on a bed of sweet potatoes and spinach, was a delightful tribute to classic cuisine with a boost of sophistication. Absolutely no complaints here.
For dessert, I couldn't help but order the intriguing ganache and mascarpone agnalloti. Basically a chocolate-filled dessert ravioli, this dish reminded me of an Italian bistro and a state fair simultaneously. It was as if a pastry from an uppety cafe and a funnel cake had a love child and a star was born. Served with pistachio ice cream which was a strangely appetizing shade of green, this dessert was not only delicious, but fun to eat. The combination of hot and cold made for the cliche "party in my mouth" effect. A good time was had by all.
Other offerings at Ellendale's include exquisite salads, seafood, pasta, steak and chicken. And their homemade desserts menu keeps expanding, with five new offerings this month and options for dessert sampler plates. I did see the ice cream sampler go past my table with five colorful flavors and beautiful presentation, like a giant caterpillar of cold creamy goodness.
Ellendale's certainly merits a visit or several, and with events like the extensive Saturday and Sunday brunches, weekday happy hour with complimentary appetizers and live music nightly, you can always find an occasion to celebrate. Invite yourself in to Ellendale's house; I'm sure she would love to have you.